[原创]06《把妆化好！》----粉底篇
<P>AWAY数码品质控制之【化妆篇】</P>
<P><br>《把照片拍好！》----谈数码品质控制之化妆[上]</P>
<P>图 文：艾 威 化 妆：韩 洁 模特：YOYO </P>
<P>影：深圳天长地久婚纱摄影机构</P>
<P>化妆既然是摄影程序的第一步，理应是数码品质控制的第一关。</P>
<P>很多影楼只注重摄影和后期，而忽略了化妆对数码色彩的影响力！</P>
<P>本篇结合多家影楼化妆问题和大家探讨数码妆面技术改进重点：</P>
<P>【观念篇】<br> <br> 化妆是干什么用的？<br> 可能很多朋友会笑话我，但确实很多人无法一下答上来。<br> 什么美化...表达...无须这样复杂的考虑，<br> 这个问题不是脑筋急转弯，答案就是：拍照用。<br> <br> 这样问自然有问的道理，答案给了我们一个考量化妆的标准。<br> 也就是只要达到拍摄需求的妆面即为合格。<br> 这样我们只需要考虑胶片和数码拍摄妆面不同就可以了。<br> 和传统胶片拍摄时化妆不同的是：<br> 胶片拍摄时，正常情况下最后妆面效果和我们肉眼看见效果是相似的。<br> 数码拍摄时，情况就不是这样了。<br> ◆由于数码成像中CCD或CMOS是无法得知颜色，所以都由附加在上面的滤色片感知合成。<br> 其组合大多为：RGBG。也就是说绿50%，红25%，蓝25%，色彩合成原理上和胶片的红，<br> 绿，蓝各占33.33%是完全不同的，数码是模拟生成，胶片是对应生成。</P>
<P> ◆所以对胶片拍摄妆面的判断凭的更多是感觉而非数据。<br> 感觉是非线性的而数据是线性的。<br> 举个例子：腮红色，每多抹一下人会感觉红了点，但绝对感觉不出比原来多抹了几下，<br> 而数码拍摄是机器记录数据就不一样，多抹了几下数码都能准确的记录。</P>
<P>★★所以判断数码妆面的标准：<br> 一定要以拍摄完成的数码照片原文件（而非修饰调整后）的妆面为判断依据。<br> [前提是拍摄正常，如何区分摄影与化妆的错误见《人像摄影》2006年1期]<br> 化妆师一定要多看原片，逐渐改变判断习惯。</P>
<P> 【实战篇】<br> 本篇讲述的是数码拍摄化妆和胶片拍摄化妆的区别，重点为妆面色彩的变化。<br> 如粉底色，红色，黑色等变化，对造型就不做细究。<br> <br> 先看化妆前[图001]</P>
<P><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004535308.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004535308.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/200721220393480575.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/200721220393480575.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P>
<P>后[图002]</P>
<P>对比照片[均为拍摄原片无修饰]<br> <br> 好了按照次序我们一步步来：</P>
<P> 【洁面】<br> 化妆前洁面这个估计不用多说，<br> 需要提醒是：必须要注意水温过热和过冷，都会影响皮肤本身的光泽。<br> 当然对于毛孔过大的，可用冰水冷敷处理一下。<br> ◆对于有暗疮，伤口等瑕疵的皮肤，切忌过重过热擦洗。<br> ◆洁面完成涂抹保护液，乳液，霜之类能使你更容易上妆。[图003]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004592418.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004592418.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P>
<P> 【修眉】<br> 一般分三步：<br> 1/先用浅色眉笔画出你需要的眉毛形状。[图004]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004537987.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004537987.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> 2/梳理好眉毛形状。[图005]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004521280.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004521280.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> 3/用镊子拔去多余杂毛，[图006]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004586757.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004586757.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P>
<P> 成型。[图007]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004568595.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004568595.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> 需要提醒是：要梳理成型后再修理，千万不要为了形状而把眉毛剪成半根，<br> 尽量让眉毛整根舒展成型。[具体用色在下篇讲述]<br> </P>
<P> </P>
<P>★★★【粉底】<br> 化妆的基础是完美的底妆。那么上粉底就是最重要的一步。<br> 脸部的肌肤由于受自然界或自身因素的影响，变得不再那么细腻和均匀。<br> 打上粉底能均匀肤色，细腻柔滑肌肤，并体现脸部的轮廓，塑造漂亮的肌肤。<br> <br> 【粉底的分类】<br> A/液体状粉底，适应于油性、中性、干性的皮肤。液体粉底的配方较轻柔， <br> 紧贴皮肤，有透明自然的效果。油性皮肤要选择水质的粉底，中性皮肤则宜<br> 选择轻柔的粉底，干性皮肤可以选用有滋润作用的粉底。</P>
<P> B/乳状粉底适用于中性、干性、特干性皮肤。乳霜状粉底有修饰效果，<br> 它属于油性配方，其滋润成分特别适合干性皮肤，更能掩饰细小的干纹，<br> 有时使用后可能会出现粉刺，这时要停止使用，可用手指代替海棉扑，<br> 以免使海棉吸去大量的粉底，使粉底不易均匀的涂抹于面部。</P>
<P> C/粉饼状粉底适用于中性皮肤，有遮瑕作用。粉饼状的粉底用法简单，<br> 不过由于质地厚，较难涂得均匀，应使用湿润的海棉涂抹，<br> 如是干性皮肤要先涂上润肤露，而油性皮肤则宜拍上爽肤水。</P>
<P> D/干湿两用粉饼，适用于油性及中性皮肤，干湿两用粉底使用方便, <br> 将干粉底扫在面上，能修饰妆容，显得自然通透，<br> 而用湿润了的粉扑扑上粉底，则可以营造出细致清爽的效果，<br> 油性肌肤在施用粉饼前，应先拍上爽肤水，用吸油纸印去面上的油脂。 <br> <br> ◆ 我简单的把它归纳为干，湿二种。实际操作中：<br> 干粉：遮盖力强，厚，涂抹较难均匀，比较闷； <br> 湿粉：遮盖力弱，薄，涂抹较易均匀，比较透。</P>
<P> 【粉底的色彩选择】 <br> 近来流行的黄色基调粉底较自然也较适合大多数的东方人；<br> 偏粉色基调的粉底则可以改变气色，使脸色较为红润。<br> 本篇选择千艺粉底为例。<br> <br> ★★★★【我的粉底调制经验】★★★★<br> <br> ◆没有一款真正为你客人量身定做的粉底，所以只能选择接近色。<br> ◆碰到肤色黑或不理想的，别指望用粉底彻底改变他。<br> 只可略微调亮粉底色，后期提亮效果更好<br> ★★如何确定粉底的色彩？<br> 应先将粉底涂在下颔部位，因为该处的肤色与面部和颈部的肤色最接近。<br> 然后在合适光线下仔细观测，紧记要将粉底彻底涂匀。<br> 一款不宜察觉的颜色。便是最适合肤色的粉底。<br> 本篇选择千艺粉底A1，A2，A3分别涂于下颔部位[图008]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004586496.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004586496.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆根据你观察所得粉底色作为中间色，选择干粉，<br> 然后自己加水和乳液。根据肤色适当的加入同类浅色或深色粉底。<br> 就能调配出最和肤色的粉底色。[水溶解性好，蜜黏附力强]<br> 本篇选择千艺粉底A2为主，调和适量A3，用其A2液体粉底加水作调和剂。[图009]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004593282.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004593282.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> [调和粉底量无须这样多，只是为了让大家看清楚示意。下面一样]<br> ◆调和一定要均匀搅拌 。水，乳液，粉底，比例合理。<br> ◆调制粉底的好处：最适合皮肤原色，质地轻柔，易于涂抹，覆盖力强，<br> 不堵塞毛孔，通透亮丽，效果非常自然，妆面持久，不宜脱落。<br> <br> <br> 【遮瑕】<br> 碰到脸上长有小雀斑、色斑、暗疮、色素沉着或是肤色不匀等瑕疵，<br> 是先补？还是打完粉底再补？还是不补？<br> 打完粉底再补--很多脸就这样花了，后期一修不是没层次平了就是更花了。<br> 后补另一恶果：易脏，漂浮。<br> 更有影楼搞什么透明状，全让后期修。不说效果如何，但想想工作量，<br> 如果一个人脸上一个点拍摄100张，那后期就要点100次，而化妆做，就只要 <br> 一次。效率效果不言自明。<br> ◆先补后补[效果大家可以比对一下][图010]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004592685.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004592685.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆步骤：<br> 1/确定遮瑕粉底颜色<br> 本篇根据先得出的皮肤颜色，确定瑕粉底颜色为A2为主，用A2液体粉底加水作调和剂。[图011] </P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004528379.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004528379.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P>
<P> <br> 2/遮瑕需要注意：如果遮瑕用软刷很可能上粉底时会被带露。个人建议用硬笔或笔杆，手指等。<br> 所以大面积的建议用手指，[图012]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004541297.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004541297.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P>
<P> 小的痣斑个人建议用化妆笔杆，[图013]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004588402.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004588402.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P>
<P> 先点[图014]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004537088.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004537088.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> 再象擀面似的处理好过度，基本已肉眼看不出为准。切忌：大块涂抹！[图015]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004558834.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004558834.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆眼袋，皱纹，笑沟道理雷同。<br> ◆遮瑕完成[图016]。</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004541399.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004541399.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P>
<P> 对比效果[图017]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004599312.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122004599312.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> <br> <br> <br> 【粉底的涂抹】</P>
<P> ◆搞清均匀的概念。“均匀地涂抹粉底”并不是指把粉底涂得薄厚一致，<br> 而是提醒你“不要让粉底的颜色深浅不均。”这一点很容易使人产生误解，<br> 让很多人理解为“要把粉底涂在脸上的每个部位，而且薄厚一致”。<br> 为了增强脸部的立体感，调整不同部位粉底的薄厚是非常重要的。<br> <br> ◆粉底涂抹方法很多，一般先从额头、脸颊等面积较大的部分开始，<br> 最后涂抹眼睛、嘴巴周围的细小部分，方向是由脸中央向周围涂抹开。<br> <br> ★★★★【我的上粉底经验】★★★★<br> <br> ◆事先需要用水浸泡海绵拍[图018]，</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033226545.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033226545.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /></P>
<P> 用时应将海绵拧七-八分干后再用。[图019]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033219087.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033219087.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆因为自调粉底是湿粉，变干和被皮肤吸收后色彩略微有变化。所以<br> 应该先在自己的手背上反复涂抹，熟悉粉底的特性和粉底在皮肤上的感觉，<br> 在完全掌握技巧之后，就可以尝试在脸上涂抹了。[图020]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033289264.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033289264.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆最好以海绵垂直轻弹，轻拍的方式，让粉底与皮肤更融合，粉底也就比较持久。[图021][图022]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033282637.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033282637.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033212517.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033212517.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆涂粉底时，请留意发际，下颔和颈部一定也要打上粉底，否则会非常不自然。<br> 事实上，重视化妆者甚至连耳朵都必须打上粉底。[图023][图024][图025]</P>
<P> <br> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033244343.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033244343.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033268376.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033268376.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033277733.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033277733.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆尽量推抹到脸部最边缘的地方，一边拍打一边涂抹，并向外推抹，一直推抹到<br> 不能再远的程度，这是一种非常好的方法，效果自然且方法简单。<br> 这样完全能够减少粉底连接处的痕迹，并能与皮肤自然融合。[图026][图027]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033295736.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033295736.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033295139.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033295139.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆鼻翼、嘴角及眼角等细小部位[也可用中指或无名指的指肚]，采取轻轻拍打的方法。<br> 这些部位是最容易显现皱纹的部位，如果不精心涂抹，很容易显露粉底的痕迹。[图028][图029]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033273028.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033273028.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033285947.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033285947.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> <br> ◆要注意的是每个区域连接处是否能涂匀，是否自然融合在一起。<br> <br> ◆实际比对结果：这样上的粉底比一般方法干净通透，妆面持久时间长多2倍。<br> <br> ◆基础粉底上完效果[图030]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033243051.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033243051.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> <br> <br> 【粉底塑型】<br> <br> ◆无论选用哪种基调的粉底，想化出完美的底妆时，<br> 都需要三种不同的粉底色彩来创造立体感。<br> 使用顺序为：浅色在先，而后使用中间色，最后才用深色修饰。 </P>
<P> A/浅色粉底：可挑选最浅的粉底色，使用在T字部位（额头、鼻梁）。[图031] </P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033281737.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033281737.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> B/中间色粉底：与你肤色最接近的色泽，作为整个脸部的底色。 <br> C/深色粉底：用以修饰脸形，使用在U字部位（两颊、下巴等处）。[图032]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033261288.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033261288.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆ 涂抹完毕，用手掌贴合肌肤，利用手掌温度使二种不同的粉底与肌肤互相融合。[图033] </P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033232636.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033232636.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> ◆ 完整粉底完成效果。[图034]</P>
<P> <img src="attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033290549.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2007-2/20072122033290549.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><br> </P>
<P> 下篇继续讲述数码化妆时色彩的运用。由于只讲色彩，所以没有牵涉到造型等问题。<br> 愿意一起继续探讨数码品质控制的朋友可以登陆<br> 我的博客：<a href="http://away.blog.wedchina.com/bbs/boke.asp?away.index.html" target="_blank" >http://away.blog.wedchina.com/bbs/boke.asp?away.index.html</A>。<br> 或人像摄影论坛<a href="http://www.rxsy.net/bbs/index.asp" target="_blank" >http://www.rxsy.net/bbs/index.asp</A>，我们继续交流 。<br> </P>
<P><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000" face=楷体_GB2312 color=#ffff00 size=5>本文已经刊登《人像摄影》2006第7期</FONT></P>
<P><FONT style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #000000" face=楷体_GB2312 color=#ffff00 size=5>未经同意请勿转载！违者必究！</FONT></P><br> <br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br>
